Freedom on the open road!

Now at Irkuts. and ready to fly out to Moscow so this will be the last time I send any info providing I get half a chance to use this internet before I am called away as we are bing taken out on a picnic to Lake Baikal .
Andy and I did finally set off from Chita by ourselves unsupported to Irkuts 1100km to the west. We were putting all out trust in the bikes behaving themselves and being able to cover big distances in a short time (not done before on the Urals so it was quite a gamble). If all else failed we were never more than about 100km from the Trans Siberian Railway so a faily small side trip would gain us a way out, we hoped. For the first time we actually felt like we were doing what we set out to do and riding through the Russian courty side, stopping a small villages, finding accommadation and help if needed was so liberating.
The three days were a race aginst the clock and we pushed the poor old bikes wat too hard. The first two days we got through without and major bike issues but the third day not so lucky.
First Andrew’s rig destroyed a bearing in the side car wheel almost sending him off the road as it locked up, then a broken accelorator cable and finally fairly terminal engine problems. After lmost two hours of attempting to get it running enough to limp the final 150km to Irkuts, we finally had to ditch it. This meant putting his side car on to my bike,loding all the gear onto it and setting off on the final leg on one bike. Not a bad ending to our 6 week adventure to cross Russia , Two men riding into the night on the one remaining bike to reach their destination in one last ditch attempt. Well almost the final bike died 40 km short and we had to be towed into Irkuts. Not quite the ending we had invisaged but still with a little dignity as at least there is one bike sitting in a garage in Irkuts wating for the local bike club to dispay it as a memorial to the folly of 4 mad Australians who defied all the advice not to attempt the venture on Russian motorcycles.
There is a lot to be said about the trip that to date has not been said to protect reputations. This will be told as there are a few pubilications that want our story and perhaps a little time may temper our fellings a bit and make the telling a little more objective.

Thanks Chris for being the medium to get info of our sad little adventur onot the net.

Arthur.

The route so far …

Wrong Way Round

Chita

Chita Russia

Sorry for the blackout but we have been out of range of just about everything. We have just rolled into a large town called Chita .

It could be the end of the line as we lose our backup vehicle and have to go on alone.

This is a bit scary as we are running out of time and have to be at Irkuts by the 18th and can’t afford to stuff up.

It may be just Andy and I who head off unsupported as Fred is not keen on the idea. Will let you know how it ramps out tomorrow. Unlikely to get internet before Irkuts.

Arthur.
(by SMS)

TV stars

It’s early evening, getting dark, the temperature has dropped below 10, it’s drissling and my bike is missfirering causing the group to grind along a less than 50 kmph. As i watch the odometre creep ever so slowly towords the distance we needed to acheive to reach our goal of Svobodnyy, out of nowhere there appeared somthing to lift our weary spirits. It is amazing how you respond to the site of TV cameras waitng your arrival at a town you have never head of before. Car and bike mounted cameras darted in and out of our little band filming us as we were led into town by an escort of other motorcycles. This was to become the footage along with interviews given at our hosts home that was replayed on the local areas tv news and updated all the following day.(the population of our little know town of Svobodnyy is over 200.000).
This is the third time now we have been interviewed buy various TV stations across the county but this time we got to fully appreciate the impact. Rossi Boots and Dryrider should benefit from this one as we have lots of original and edited footage to pass on to them when we return.
Once again what followed was a hard night of being entertained when all we really wanted to do was collapse in a quiet corner somewhere. We have been stuck in Svobodnyy now for two days due to my continued effects of food poisoning and also bike problems. We plan to set out early tomorrow and get in a big day, such are the plans of mice and men and riders of Russian motorcycles.
We have to be in Irkutsk , another 2000km, by the 18th to conect with our flight out of central Russia to Moscow . This is a big ask as it the roads will be getting progressivley worse the further west we go and the bike thoug better understood are deteriorating.
Plan B is to all pile into the professors dodgy truck or flag down the Trans Siberian Railway at one of the little towns along the way. told it is possible.
thats all now as I am using our host dial up and they wont let us pay for it’s use. No phots this time impssible.
Arthur ( tuesday 8th Sept)

Blagoveshohensk

At present we have arrives at a town called Blagoveshohensk after 4 very long days from Khabarousk ( a very large city jst before you head off into the bad lands of eastern Russia .

The bad lands are not as bad as they were reported to us prior but were certainly desolate with little hope of much assistance except for the ever watchful eyes of the biker community over here. It is quite amazing the network that is always ready to lend a hand, one which wihtout we would be even further behind than we are. Despite its desolation there are patches af real beauty and for the first time saw huge tracks of land under serious cultivation of wheat and barley.

Many ongoing problems with the bikes (and bodies), the bikes hopfully we are sorting out but realistically it is only a matter of time before at least one of the bikes fails to such an extent that we have no choice but t abondon it. The poisened bodies on the oher hand will recover but not after a few days of missery. Andy and I were unintentionally poisened by the professor with a peice of sausage we should have refused.

Andrew and I in our state of bodily weekness sought the refuge of a hotel on Blagoveshchensk last night so we could be near a toilet (not a hole in the ground) and a place to sleep without the ongoing partying of the local motorcycle Club where we are staying.

Thats all I have itme for as Andy used up most of the internet time and we really do have to get back on the road ofter yet another day of inaction.

Thanks and talk soon.

Arthur.

Photos Between Khabarousk – Birabidzhan – Blagoveschensk
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Good Soviet car.

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Showering on the road. You should have smelt him before.

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Not happy Fred

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Good Russian dort road.

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Bit of rain (finished off Arthur’s bike)

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Not bad if you can get it.

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Clean and tidy as usual

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Our fearles leader waits for the rest.

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On the road again

Progress …

Sorry for the delay in getting information to you but we have been out of access to a computer altogether for the last few days.

We are well under way now on the adventure and although things are far from going smoothly we are taking it for the most part in out stride.

At present we are in a town called Birobidzhan, I am sure you will be able to find it on the Map (its 200km west of Khabarousk)

birobidzhan

Since the last message out we have travel about 700km, not very impressive but considering we have almost completely rebuilt Andrews and Fred’s bikes in the meantime we think it’s not too bad.

We are always the host of the local motorcycle clubs along the way and are treated like VIP’s and even had another television station send out a film crew to interview us.

We believe now it’s the novelty or amusement factor rather than our bravado that attracts the attention as in their minds nobody in their right mind would attempt to ride across Russia on a Ural. They regard these bikes as a complete joke, a reminder of how tragic their manufacturing industry has been and for the most part still is. Only yesterday we managed to get a much needed electrical part (a coil) for Fred’s Planet only to find after much consternation that the part was faulty.

Spirits rollercoaster a bit these days and occasionally differences of opinion as the motives of our host cause some friction, usually after yet another delay caused by our hosts not communicating their desires for what they want to do with us. We so often find ourselves wasting hours waiting to be taken and paraded before someone’s friends when we could have been working on bikes or even seeing a few of the sights.

At present all three bikes are running and although Fred is happy to sacrifice the Planet and travel in the truck we are reluctant to do this so spend perhaps more time than we should trying to keep the thing going. This may change if it continues to misbehave as today we head off into the badlands of Siberia where for the next 600km there is no help available and may have no option.

Sorry there is not more information getting out of Russia but it really is difficult and opportunity to actually sit at a computer is almost non existent.

My apologies also to all those who have sent facebook messages that I have not responded to but is simply not possible. Today is a rare opportunity and even now the computer at the local post office keeps going off line.

We have a Russian girl Lena who has been traveling with us as a sort of translator come adjudicator between us and the professor.

We are looking forward to being reunited with friends and love ones in OZ.

For those interested, the toilet arrangements go from almost acceptable to the downright diabolical where only a very brave or desperate person would venture.

Thanks for the help and understanding that has been given so that we don’t feel too guilty for neglecting everyone.

Morning at camp

Morning at camp

Fred and Lena

Fred and Lena

The Mother Ship: Andrew's Rig

The Mother Ship: Andrews Rig

Leaving Town

Leaving Town

With Friends

With Friends

Urals forever

Urals forever

Destruction of the Planet …

After negatiating the Russian Beaurocracy and getting translations of our Australian drivers licences we finally left Ussuriysk at around 5pm and set off north. Free at last again on Russian roads Andrew and I on the mighty Urals and Fred on his trusty Planet. Lovely while it lasted but it wasnt long before Russia had it’s way again. Not in the form of paper work or over zealous police, not one of the Urals having it’s evil way with us. No Fred’s so reliable Red Planet decided it was its turn to show us that Russian engenering will always beat opportunistic westeners. Three hours of groveling on the side of a busy dusty road with the occasional help of a willing Russian biker strangers we finaly conceded defeat and towed the planet the 20 kms back to the Iron Tigers club house. Tails between our legs we sought their gracious help once agian. They think we are quite mad attempting riding anywhere on one of their Urals but to actually think we can ride across Russia is for their ammsuement. The club has as full time machanic and his services were called on and he worked through to midnight diagnosing the problem..one dead motor and a complete rebuild needed. This they assured us could be acheived tomorrow after shopping the markets for the parts neccessary, As I write this the Russian lads (they are all young and am sure would be very attractive to you Aussie girls) are downstairs in the workshop hopfully putting the final bits back together. IF it proves unsuccessful and the bike really is dead we will have to abandon it and proceed on the two Urals.

Progress is so very slow and all we wan now is a day when we can ride uninterupted by either bike problems or over hospitable Russian hosts, we simply want a bit of riding.

The photos:
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Sadly typical of housing in Eastern Siberia

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Iron Tigers MC (club house)

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Andy’s patented side stand for Arthurs bike. (you should try using the centre stand on a Ural especially if you are as skinny as Arthur).

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The Russian lads who worked on Fred Planet.

Ussuriysk

We are finally on the road, ground hog day had finally been broken.

Set off from Nakhodka around 5pm yesterday and rode until midnight and covered nearly 200km to reach a biker friend of the professor around midnight.

Ussuriysk

No real trouble with the bikes which although we had done so much preparation was still a likely possibility. During the night Andy was stopped by the road police and interrogated with the intention of getting a bribe (which in the end they did) with the lame reason for holding for one being that he did not have a Russian translation of his licence.  We carry around a folder each with documentation relating from everything from who invited us to the multiple registrations we need for each bike covering the different regions we hope to pass through.  Not enough they still ended up 1000r (A$ 45).  All we can do though is lay back and take it. I am not quite as forgiving as Andy an this matter so the air is a little thick at present. I am sure we will get through it as there is hopefully lots of miles to roll under us that will bring all back together.

Despite our slow start and continuing delays we are at least underway. The old Urals (only 2 now) are lumbering on with a lot of nursing and the little Planet ridden by  Fred buzzes on mostly contentedly.

Photos:

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At Last!

The day has finally arrived when we break the ground hog day curse of Eastern Siberia . Every day now for two weeks we have woken up in the same beds to see the same faces to go through the same routine of working on bikes that will never be right and then after it gets dark at 10 pm sit around with Russians drinking vodka till 3am knowing that we are doomed to repeat it over the next day.

No longer. After some serious soul searching and the loss of Duncan due to his committments that no one could garanttee he could meet given we had no idea when and where we would be in two weeks, we now head west.

The last few days have forced us to make difficult decisions including regrouping after the loss of Duncan, the relisation that Urals (at least our Urals) are not bike that one can be relyed on unless you have spent much more time than we had to sort them out and the subsequent abondoning of two of them befor we start. This realisation of the shotcomings of our urals saw us jump at an opportunity to purchase a running Russian Planet motorcycle (two stroke) with side care to suppliment our deminsihing faith that we would have enough bikes to commence the trip.

Yesterday and today saw two serious test runs that have given us the confidence to set out tomorrow.  Andrew on a Ural side car rig, Fred on the Planet and Arthur on a Ural minus side car. Our first day destination is Vladavostok 200 km SW of where we are have been staying outside of Nakhodka. From there we head  700 km N to  Khabarovsk before turning W through Siberia .

Now all is ready we are about to be pampered with a hot bath a Russian bath house. The thought of big Igor and his birch sprigs is a little concering but maybe they are pulling our legs.

We have made some wonderful friends while morooned here some that we will most certainly be maintained. We have also developed attribtes that will be useful next time we find ourselves in a completely powerless situation.

Thanks for being patient with us for we feel like we are letting down all those who have given up a lot for the sake of this adventure. Once on the road I hope internet access might be a little more accessable mainly due to us not being beholden to aur guests for transport.

I am right now being hastled to return as we are being taken out to the bath house. Tough really.

Will send photos tonight.

Arthur.

Metal cocktails …

I’m not saying they’re actually possessed, but I’m pretty sure there is
some form of witch doctory happening. One moment running like a rocket,
the next, spewing white hot oil engine oil over our shiny new Rossi boots!
I think there is possibly an international quota of Ural motorcycles that
can be running at any one time. That’s the only logical explanation for
how sometimes we can get three going but not four, then we can only get 1
going!
Needless to say the challenges continue. Following a fantastic run
through some beautiful Siberian countryside complete with dramatically
rising sheer rock faces and rainforest thick bush, my delightful beast
decided that it did not like the front main bearing race anymore. It
therefore proceeded to chew it up distributing shards of metal throughout
the engine including all though the cam gear teeth. Needless to say that
the cam gear teeth weren’t having a bar of that and spat off some metal
shards of their own in reply making quite a cocktail of unwanted metal
componentry in the sump. It all got a bit hot and noisy and I limped back
to the mosquito swamp which masqueraded as a workshop for further repairs.
Fortunately my local guardian angel “Anton”, a local 18 year old Ural
enthusiast happened to be a loose end that afternoon and proceeded to
strip the engine and rebuilt it from scratch!
Will update more as the adventure unfolds..